Hello people.
Since the Super Soco TS or TC is the only proper cheap electric motorcycle that you can buy now, it is a good base to modify to everyone's needs.
I think it is time to share the experience from 10000 km of riding it.
As many of the users here know there are some issues that require mods. For instance the ultimate stupidity of the manufacturer for not being able to connect 2 parallel batteries when they charge 1000+ euro for the extra battery leaves no actual gain for the user. The main reason you buy the second battery is for the bike to have longer range and less stress on each battery thus prolonging its life. This can be easily solved by connecting a pack without a BMS from Soco DIRECTLY where the power from the normal battery goes, i.e. the circuit breaker for the + and the negative on the controller for the -. This will give you longer range, as expected, proper power and speed for longer distance and prolong the battery life. For those who want to try to build one you must know that the Soco is working at 17s battery layouts. Not exactly 60 volts but a tiny bit more. You need to keep the original battery connected so that you have a reading on the panel and since there will be a parallel connection, the voltage on the two will be equal.
The next thing that someone would like to do is make it more powerful and enable features like Regenerative braking or cruise control. This can only be done with another ECU. After testing the Kelly, I can say that it is reliable but the KLS 7218 WILL NOT give good top speed UNLESS it gets more Volts. The alternative is the Sabvoton SVMC 72150 or 72200 with the Flux weakening feature.
Beware that the stress will get to the motor! Expect high temperatures and be gentle with it. But one of the things that will happen is that there will be play of the motor axle due to the regenerative braking which will lead to the wear of the blades that keep it from spinning. These are the two black metallic strips that you can see on the sides of the motor where the two nuts that hold it in place are screwed together with a small 10 mm bolt towards the front of the bike. This should be taken into consideration when modifying it. Otherwise, at first you will hear a squeak when you go from acceleration to braking and vice versa. After a while you will feel a play of the axle when braking and accelerating.
There is always the possibility of getting another motor that can handle the task but it will not be compatible with the speedometer of the panel and you will lose the reading.
Ride safe people...
Hi Punto!
Thanks for the information, Please keep us up to date and take some photos of the problem Maybe it can be made better by a mod! Still love the bike it has so many potentials for updating & improvements!
Christian
Great bit of information there for sure.
Ideally I'd like to upgrade the range on my TC max and so I'm wanting to increase the battery capacity. Would the method you mentioned above work the same, by just basically building a second battery without the BMS that's connected in parallel and is it then possible just to charge both batteries at the same time just by connecting to the charge point built into the bike?
Thanks 🙂
please always use a BMS for your and the battery packs safety.
Where do you want to put the additional batteries in the TC Max?
I think what Puntofato meant with "no BMS" is "no BMS communication". Because as soon as one BMS (that´s connected via UART with the ecu) detects charging current/balancing current, it wont respond to throttle input.
@wagner that makes sense and I was a little confused when I read it. Depending what route I take I'm toying with making custom side panias (Sorry for the spelling) to store an extra battery or 2 if I wanted to do longer journeys so they wouldn't be a permanent thing. Either that or look at making a single much bigger battery and extend the existing battery housing by relocating various complements. That's the easy part as I'm an engineer and can make most the custom stuff I need but I'm new to batteries so doing as much research as I can.
@andyroo396 sounds good! May I ask where you are from?
If you want the side panels, they should have the same voltage and capacity like the big battery. You could toy around with various BMS´s but it´s probably better to give every pack it´s own master BMS.
If you ride, the packs should be charged to an equal level to prevent balancing currents. If you connect all in parallel, you gould charge them via the onboard charge plug.
But the charger should be adjustable with it´s output current! So that if you´d take only the main battery, the charge current is adequately low than with side panels.
Investment: ~300€/kWh for batteries, BMS ~100€ a piece
Guys, I come more from the petrol side of things, but I've had my TC for a bit, and I've been lurking the forums. I'm not sure If I'm finally understanding how I can get the power boosts without upgrading the motor. I don't know if I want to dive into all that, although I wouldn't mind a more spoked rim look like the TC max has.
Ultimate question was, did you guys have any issues fitting a controller and more battery? And this process makes the batteries less "removable" to charge outside of the bike? Then I suppose, I saw the recommendation for a 70V what kind of battery pack can I find to fit in series?
Well, I got more into this question(s) than I thought, lmk if I should move this to a new post.
